Part 3 of our 3-Part article:
- Exfoliating Skin Care Acids
- What does pH have to do with a skin care acid’s effectiveness?
- Moisturizing Acids – no bite, all love
Not all acids are exfoliating like Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) or Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA).
In previous blog posts we explored the first two of the 3 primary factors to consider when choosing an acidic ingredient in your skin care products. Now we explore how an ingredients' name may confuse consumers into thinking that since it has the term "acid" in its name that it must exfoliate.
- What do acids do for the skin?
- What does pH have to do with a skin care acid’s effectiveness? What is the percentage of the active acid(s) in the product?
- Moisturizing vs Exfoliating Acids
Moisturizing Skin Care Acids…no bite, all love…..
Hyaluronic Acid is not your typical exfoliating acid, but instead is a hydration powerhouse! Hyaluronic Acid (HA) can attract 1000 times its own molecular weight of water into the skin. You can think of it as a sponge absorbing atmospheric moisture to keep your face plump and juicy! All skin types can benefit from HA, and it is an excellent moisturizer for oily and acneic skin individuals who are oil-phobic.
- HA found naturally in the body
- Plumps up fine lines and wrinkles
- Leaves skin juicy and smooth
- Helps ensure the health of the skin’s surface
Most of IGOG’s Skin Care products contain Hyaluronic Acid but those products that are loaded with HA include:
Oleic and Linoleic Acid , like hyaluronic acid, are non-exfoliating acids. These fatty acids play a crucial role in the structural integrity and healthy function of the skin. These fatty acids don’t have a very long shelf life unless paired in formulas that have preservatives or antioxidants in them. Oleic and Linoleic Acids are found in many oils, and those oils’ concentration of oleic and/or Linoleic acid may vary depending on where the oil is sourced, the growing conditions of the source’s biological material, etc. Here is a list of some easily obtainable oils that may contain these fatty acids. Check the nutritional information on the product’s label to determine the amount of each contained within.
- Oleic is a fatty acid found in heavier, richer, and slow to absorb oils. This thick, rich acid can help heal dry skin and decrease signs of aging. It is not appropriate for skin that tends to get acne because Oleic acid can clog follicles.
Linoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid which means it tends to stay liquid at lower temperatures, making it less likely to clog your follicles. Linoleic Acid is thought to be lacking in acne prone skin’s sebum (natural skin oils).
- This astringent, anti-inflammatory oil can be used to keep acne-prone skin moist and pliable.
- A double-blind placebo-controlled randomized cross-over study (good research design) found there was a 25% reduction in the overall size of microcomedones in patients with mild acne after linoleic acid was topically applied over a 1-month period (Magin, Adams, Pond, Smith, 2006).
When choosing oil to use on your skin, pay attention to the ratios of linoleic to oleic acid so you get the most of the oil you want and the least of the oil that you need to avoid. This is especially true if you want the more acne-preventing linoleic acid on your face while avoiding the richer follicle clogging oleic acid.
Downie, M. M. T., Guy, R., & Kealey, T. (2004). Advances in sebaceous gland research: potential new approaches to acne management. International journal of cosmetic science, 26(6), 291-311
Letawe, C., Boone, M., & Pierard, G. E. (1998). Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones. Clinical and experimental dermatology, 23(2), 56-58.
Magin, P. J., Adams, J., Pond, C. D., & Smith, W. (2006). Topical and oral CAM in acne: A review of the empirical evidence and a consideration of its context. Complementary therapies in medicine, 14(1), 62-76.
Simonart, T. (2012). Newer approaches to the treatment of acne vulgaris. American journal of clinical dermatology, 13(6), 357-364.